Thursday, May 24, 2018

The best hotel in the fable land of El Dorado

I had really low expectation coming to Colombia.  I knew it had a lot of drug trafficking problems in the past as well as kidnapping.  I heard it had been cleaned up but who knows?  I knew the best way to get home from my long trip in South America was taking the Avianca flight from Bogota to LAX.  Plus there are two Four Seasons hotels in town.  How bad can it be?

To my great surprise, Bogota was not bad at all!  In fact, I know for sure on my way to finally get to Machu Picchu someday, I will use Bogota as a jumping off point not Lima (since there is a nonstop flight from Bogota to Cusco).  Bogota is at 8,660 ft high so this is actually a good city to acclimatize oneself to high altitude before heading to Cusco at 11,152 ft high.  To give you a reference point, Denver is 5280 ft high.

But Bogota is more than just a convenient point for me to acclimatize before hopping to the dizzying height of Cusco.  I actually find Bogota a very charming town that I would recommend any of my friends to go to.  As stated earlier, there are two Four Seasons in town.  The Four Seasons Hotel Bogota is located at the business part of the city where as Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina is located at the fine dining section of the city.  For this review, I will talk about Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina.

If you always wanted to stay at a Four Seasons Hotel but never had the budget to stay at one, Casa Medina should be on your list as the rooms here starts from low $300s per night.  Their one bedroom suite is less than $550 per night.  You really cannot find a cheaper Four Seasons Hotel to stay at in the world!

I stayed at the Penthouse Suite which was where Mick Jagger stayed when he visited Bogota couple years back.  The suite is essentially divided into three areas.  You have a fully functional kitchen, a living room/ dining room combo, and a master bedroom.  There are two full baths in the suite so if you are traveling with kids, this can work quite well as the kids can sleep in the living room while parents sleep in the bedroom.  There is also a large walk in closet in the master bedroom and a large desk and chair in the entrance hall.  Because the hotel is a historical building, so central air is not allowed in the rooms.  However, Bogota temperature is quite similar to San Francisco meaning it's never too hot during day time and at night time temperature tends to fall to high 40s so the rooms stay relatively cool even without air condition.  My understanding is Four Seasons Casa Medina is still trying to install central air system so perhaps when you visit in the future, it would be installed.

I thought the location of the hotel was good.  Sure, it's not next to all the tourist trap areas so you can't just walk to different landmarks but it's only about a quick 25-30 minutes car ride.  I like the fact that hotel is actually in a fine dinning section of the city so you can stroll to many restaurants without having to hail a cab.  The food scene here reminded me of San Francisco ten years ago.  You can see proliferation of good solid restaurants popping up left and right and prices are definitely very very reasonable compare to San Francisco.

The staff at the Casa Medina was also some of the best I have encountered in South America.  The luxury tourism trade have not taken its roots here yet.  Having stayed at several "luxury" hotels in South America, the service standard is definitely below what one would get in Europe or Asia.  The Four Seasons in Bogota and Buenos Aires suffer the same fate.  Don't expect to have topnotch service as it doesn't exist in South America.  With that said, Casa Medina probably has the most polished service staff I came across in this part of the world with the exception of Awasi Patagonia which was better.

Overall I would highly recommend this Four Seasons in Bogota.  I find the service standard quite good, location ideal, and room comfortable.  I would not hesitate to return here again or recommend this hotel to friends. 


Thursday, May 10, 2018

Where to stay at the second highest capital in the world?

If you know your trivia, you would know the answer to the question: Quito.  Most people see this city as the jumping off point to Galapagos Islands.  I thought of the same thing as well.  But boy, was I wrong.

The only luxury hotel in this town is Casa Gangotena.  This boutique hotel used to be a private home for Gangotena family.  The house was rebuilt in the 1920s as the previous one was burn to the ground by a lover of one of the family's daughters.  The location of the hotel is perfect: right in the heart of this UNESCO world heritage site.  Quito is actually one of the first city to get that designation in 1978 from UNESCO and for good reason; walking around the historic downtown it's like stepping back in time to 17th century Spain.   

The location of the hotel is unbeatable if you are looking to immerse yourself with the Quito culture.  It's literally a stone throw from one of the most important church in town: San Francisco monastery.  In fact, one of the perks at staying at Casa Gangotena is that you can get a private tour of the SF monastery with one of the Franciscan friar!  The friar who took me around was so knowledgeable about the history of the monastery as well as Quito in general.  He was such a joy to spend time with.  Another perk staying at Casa Gangotena is you get free entry into Pre-Columbian Art Museum across the alley from the hotel.  Someone spend a lot of money on that museum as it's as well designed and finished as any museum in the world.  I mean we are talking about Getty museum level of finish.  Very impressive.

But back to the hotel.  The hotel public area is grand and stylish.  It retained its old world charm without looking dated.  The room I stayed in was their balcony junior suite.  It's probably the nicest room in the hotel.  They don't really have any presidential suites and the best they have is connecting two rooms via end of a hallway type of suite.  So not a true proper suite.  There is actually two Jr Suites on premise.  One is larger and in the back... presumably more insulated from noise from the street but also doesn't get as much light and does not have a balcony.  The Jr Suite with balcony is bright and airy with a nice large balcony to take breakfast in.  But its bathroom is right on the alley and sometimes when stores in the alleyway start to blast music, you can hear it right through walls and windows.  I ended up taking the Jr Suite with balcony.  Honestly, it's a bit cramped from what I'm used to and constant noise from the alley or other parts of the hotel makes me give this hotel a four stars instead of five.

Service is fine at this hotel.  I think there are some sophistication with their service ethics but it's not quite there.  The intentions are there but Four Seasons in Asia or Amans in general would blow this place out of water.  I would say the staffs are quite friendly but not anticipatory.

Food at this hotel is definitely better than any you would find in the historical center.  I had several meals outside thinking it would be better.  It wasn't.  Just eat in the hotel before you go out.  In this respect, it's very similar to Asia... meaning best restaurants tend to be inside luxury hotels.  The Sunday brunch at the hotel is quite lovely... they have a big spread of food.  The tasting menu at the hotel restaurant is not bad.  I would say it's slightly below bib gourmand level.  It's also quite cheap so one can't complain.              

Few precautions before coming to this hotel, because Quito is so high up, I would stay around the hotel for a day or two before start to seriously trekking around the historical center.  You can easily get altitude sickness if you go up and down this hilly historical area.      

Overall it's a lovely hotel.  But don't expect Four Seasons level luxury as it's not quite there.  With that said, my stay here was comfortable for the most part and I would recommend anyone coming to Quito to stay at Casa Gangotena.  One should stay at least a three full day if not four as there are quite a few things to see around Quito not just the historical downtown area.  Plus you need at least a day to adjust to the altitude.  Definitely leave the teleferico cable car ride to the day before you leave as it's over two miles high when you reach the top.  You definitely want to be adjusted to the altitude before you take the ride.

Tuesday, May 8, 2018

Exploring the Explora at Rapa Nui

Having read many tripadvisor reviews, I was somewhat intimidated about staying at this Explora.  This will actually be the first Explora hotel I have ever stayed at.  The only other Explora hotel I've been to in the past was Explora Patagonia.  I did not stay there but I would say the impression I have is it's a well run place but not particularly luxurious. Since this is probably the best reviewed place and looked like the most luxurious accommodation one can have on the island, I made the reservation and hope for the best.  Turned out my trepidation was unfounded.  Sure there is no in room service or all the activities were done in a group than individuals room, but those are the only none five star aspect of the whole experience.  There is much to be liked about this resort.

Once you get out of the chaotic Mataveri airport with your luggage, Explora is there to pick you up.  The resort is not in town but maybe only 20 minutes car drive from it.  It's a plus or a minus depending on your traveling style and preference.  I didn't care either way.  The check in process was smooth and I was in my room Raa Suite in no time.  There are basically two options.  One is Raa suite which is close to 500 sqft whereas the regular rooms are 350 sqft.  I would highly recommend the Raa suite as it gives you a bit more space to layout and chill.  I'm not a big fan of cramped rooms and 350 sqft size room to me is cramped.  The vanity is open to bedroom area.  There is a separate toilet room and a separate shower/tub room.  I kinda wish they would enclose the whole bathroom to give it even more privacy but exposing the vanity area makes the room feel roomier so I understand where the architect thought process was.

I do appreciate the architecture of the hotel.  It's a series of circles (ovals) stacked on top of each other.  Circular architecture is more expensive to build but feels more special and interesting imo.  In addition, ocean is on one side of the property and circular architecture gives more viewing opportunities for more guests to have ocean views compare to square or rectangular buildings.

Because how late I arrived, Explora took the liberty to assign me an activity for the following day which I was fine with.  The way how they structure the activities is you leave in your activity group around 9AM and you come back around 1PM.  Then you leave again around 3PM and come back around 7PM.  Of course this depends on the activity you are on.  You may leave a little bit later or come back a little bit earlier.  But in general, this is the schedule.  Everyday after your exploration, your guide will ask you what you want to do the following day.  So depending on what you choose, you may see the same people in your group. This forces you to meet people that you see in the dining room whether you like it or not.  I typically would prefer not to interact with other resort guests but I have to say I really enjoy meeting all the guests at Explora Rapa Nui.  One thing I find almost all the guests here have in common is everyone is very well traveled.  It makes sense as typically people start from big cities like NYC, London, Paris, etc. and then you branch out to more "exotic destinations" such as Rapa Nui island.  It was fun to trade experiences at various destinations/hotels as well as finding out more information on places that I will be going to in the future.  I have to say meeting other guests at Explora Rapa Nui was one of the highlights for me on the island.

Food at the hotel was surprisingly good.  Selection isn't extensive by any means but what they had was always fresh and well seasoned.  Nothing was bib gourmand level but everything was tasty.  However, I would say if you stay a week (which most people probably aren't), you will likely get tired of the food especially breakfast as they pretty much serve same breakfast over and over again.  If memory serves me correctly, they change their dinner menu every two days.

Internet is only available in the dining/ lobby area.  It was a bit annoying but I knew this in advance so I was prepared.  Other things that is worth mentioning is that they do have a nice pool area.  I didn't swim in the pool so I'm unsure temperature of the water but it was nicely designed.  The spa area is basically few rooms off to the side.  It felt kinda basic and I wish they would make it look better (ie staffed it with a reception desk, steam room, sauna room, etc).  None of those were present.  Masseuse is farmed out to local people and you have to call in advance.  There is no dedicated spa staff at the hotel.  The massage I had was good.  The treatment room was fine.  It didn't feel particularly luxurious (but wasn't shabby) and yet it was nice.  I definitely feel they could have taken it up a notch in terms of finishes.  But then again, the finishes of the hotel didn't exude luxury so I guess spa was on par with rest of the hotel.   

I was happy with all the guides I had.  They were knowledgeable.  Few of them were locals and you can feel the passion they had for the island.  I really enjoyed them retelling their forefather's history.  They were lovely... although one of them was particularly long winded...

Service was surprisingly good.  I thought the hotel management did a very good job of accommodating my requests big and small.  I felt they tried very hard and it showed.  I appreciate them going out of their way to do stuff for me.  I know some of the comments on Tripadvisor complained about the activities were very rigid.  But in reality is that if you want to see the sites on your own without a guide, the hotel is more than happy to call a car service for you and pay for it.  I wanted to go to lunch in downtown area.  No problem.  I want to see a dance show in town.  No problem.  They dispatched a car to take me there and back.  I want to do some shopping.  No problem. They took me to various shops and I even get to meet a local well known artist who does art shows all over the world.

I wasn't quite sure if I will like this hotel and being the first time staying at an Explora hotel, I was full of hesitations due to some of the negative reviews I read on Tripadvisor.  I'm glad to say I would be very happy to return to this resort.  In fact, I would be very happy to recommend this resort to friends and family.  Is this resort at an Aman level?  No. But with right expectations, this hotel is thoroughly enjoyable.